Replacing Stator and R/R - Rectifier / Regulator, Triumph Speed Triple 2006
As I reported in my blog entry: http://www.motohowto.com/content/triumph-speed-triples-dead-rectifier-regulator-rr-leads-dead-stator.
I have finally found some time to write this MotoHowTo.
My Triumph Speed Triple's R/R + stator have finally gave up their collective ghost (a known problem with this model of motorcycles) and so, together iwth stator replacement I used this opportunity to perform R/R upgrade from the OEM SCR based ( read cheap) R/R, to a MOSFET based, Shindigen FH012 R/R that is used in numerous Yamaha, Kawasaki and a few other motorcycle models.
To troubleshoot, I have used a very well documented procedure that one of the members on TriumphRat forum wrote and posted. By the way, if you own a Triumph Speed, or Street Triple's and would like to learn more about your bike, check this forum out. Here is the link to the troubleshooting charging system and R/R upgrade write-up:
I began the troubleshooting process with checking the health of the alternator (in hopes that alternator is o'k, and it's only an R/R failure), as swapping out an R/R is a much easier and faster job then replacing the alternator. I unplugged the stator connector from the R/R (3 yellow wires on the R/R side and 3 black wires coming from the stator) and checked the resistance between each of the 3 pins on the stator connector and the engine ground (see pic below). My multi-meter beeped and showed the resistance of 0.07 Ohm. Which means a SHORT for all intents and purposes. I repeated that for all 3 pins and and all of them showed SHORT to the ground. It meant - my stator is "dead".
When I tested the OEM R/R (stator connector), pin 1 to 2 was a short in both directions. This meant that OEM R/R is a toast and probably the reason for baking the stator.
Few days ago I found another very detailed charging system troubleshooting diagram. A bit more detailed and little more complex, but very very thorough:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf
Knowing what was wrong with my bike, it was time to order parts:
Since I decided to NOT to use OEM R/R, (a few used ones were available on E-Bay for around US$120.00), I searched for Shindigen FH012 based R/R and fond a used one off 2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concourse for about $32.00 shipping included (1/3 price of the inferior used OEM R/R .. gotta love E-Bay).
Next on my shopping list were the
Refurbished Stator
Furukawa connectors for the R/R
12G Automotive grade insulation wiring (black, red, yellow) & some shrink wrap tubing
I got the stator from here:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
Excellent service, great price, prompt shipping and the strter came with everything needed for install. Highly recommended
Fururakawa connectors are available from two places that I know of. Since I decided to wire my own connectors I ordered them from here (local to me, so I could just pick the parts up).
http://roadstercycle.com/
Jack Flemming has the the whole kit if you don't want top hunt for the used FH012 R/R on e-bay. REally good guy and he also builds very cool custom 3 wheelers called "Roadstercycle".
Another place to source the connectors, or the whole R/R harness custom built for you is at
http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html
If you don't know how to crimp and solder, or don't want to bother with that, you can order the connectors pre-made at Eastern Beaver. So, it becomes a plug and play deal.
A replacement stator has arrived. Great packaging and prompt shipment. Highly recommend the source:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
Below are the parts I purchased to do the stator replacement and R/R upgrade. The only item missing is the gasket sheeth that used to make a gasket for the alternator cover (didn't want to wait 10 days for the OEM gasket to arrive). Left to right: FH012 R/R, Stator, Furukawa connectors.
Closeup of the Shidigen FH012 R/R
Below is the top view of the OEM R/R.
To get there, you have to remove tank
http://www.motohowto.com/content/removing-fuel-tank-triumph-speed-triple-2006
then remove the airbox
http://www.motohowto.com/content/removing-airbox-triumph-speed-triple-2006
Below, disconnect the DC connector from the OEM R/R and the harness (the AC 3 phase connector from R/R to alternator disconnected earlier during testing).
Remove the top bolt holding OEM R/R in place
Remove the bottom bolt holding OEM R/R in place (very difficult to access)
Below OEM R/R removed.
I cut off the connectors from the OEM R/R and used them to make two new R/R harnesses, with OEM Yazaki connectors on the harness and alternator end and the Furukawa connectors on the end facing the FH012 R/R. Below is the conenctor that plugs in to harness and delivers rectified DC to the electrical system. I soldered the two red (positive polarity) wires and a 12ga automotive grade wire together.
Then I did the same with the black wires (negative)
Then I covered all the soldered joints in liquid electrical tape (got it at the auto-parts store) and allowed it to dry for 3 hours
Once the liquid tape was dry, I covered each joint with a shrink wrap insulation and shrunk it with the help of a hair dryer set on "high".
Same procedure as above was repeated for the alternator to R/R wiring harness. Soldered and liquid taped.
Then each joint individually shrink wrapped
Shindigen side of the DC wiring was crimped and then soldered (soldering picture not shown). Mental note: DONT FORGET to put all the connectors, and additional shrink wrapping on the wires before crimping and soldering the connectors on.
AC and DC harnesses ready to be connected. Yellow - AC (alternator to R/R) , Black DC (Main wiring harness to R/R)
R/R and the connectors
I mounted the FH012 with a top mounting hole. The bottom is a little off so I used a ziptie through the bottom R/R hole + the mounting bracket o secure the bottom part. I figured the top bolt with loctite on it and the bottom with zip tie should hold the R/R securely in place. Will inspect in a few weeks and see if anything come lose.
Plugged in the AC harness I made out of the old R/R's Yazaki conenctors on the alternator side
Time to replace the alternator. Removing the alternator cover bolts.
It wasn't easy to remove the cover as the previos owner had it removed and replaced before. Only he used epoxy to seal it ! !@#$@#$@#% ! It took me 2 hours of thinkering with jewelers scredrivers, varios thin blades and finally GENTLY prying the cover off with a flat blade screwdriver. I managed t only slightly nick the cover surface. Also the powerful permanent magnets hold the stator+cover in place as well. Once the cover was removed I got a look at the old stator. Yep ... one of the top most coils was burned to crisp black.
Below engine side picture with alternator cover removed. Note the remnants of the old gasket glued to both the cover and the engine sides.
Removing the 3 hex screws that attach stator to the cover case.
Removing the screw that holds wiring bracket in place
Close up of the stator wire holder / bracket
Old (Left) and New (right) stators side by side.
Old Stator. Note the charred coil at the top.
REmoving the remnants of the old gasket from the stator cover. I used the same tool to remove the renmants of the gasket from the engine side. Previous owner's mistakes ended up wasting close to 4 hours of my time just cleaning up the old mess.
Stator cower after old gasket was scraped off with a new stator installed.
Forgot to take pictures of making the new gasket. I bought the gasket paper at the automotive store and used a ballpen hammer as shown in the youtube video below to make a new gasket. Took me about 30 minutes and it was actually fun.
Replaced the old gasket and reinstall the stator cover. Torque the bolts with the torque wrench to factory specified torque setting (as specified in the service manual).
Reconnect the R/R connector to stator.
Install the airbox and tank back. Connect the Multimeter to the battery, turn the key, clutch in, thumb the starter button. Thge ngine roared to life !!!
The Multimeter reading at 4k RPM. PERFECT !!!
The lights look brighter and when I took the motorcycle on a canyon ride the following weekend, it ran smoother, with better throttle response.
- 6003 reads
Disclaimer
The content of this MotoHowTo.Com post is informational, not instructional. Improperly performed motorcycle maintenance, or repair may cause; accident, serious injury or death. If you are not a trained motorcycle mechanic, consider taking your motorcycle to a trained motorcycle mechanic, authorized dealer, or the after-market motorcycle parts installation facility.
Comments
Just food for thought. Rick's
Just food for thought. Rick's sells the new R/R for the Speed Triple 1050. The price is the cheapest that I've found. They also have the correct plug end if yours are not destroyed. Both the stator and rectifier died on me and i ordered them from Rick's. They showed up two days later to Virginia. They were awesome to deal with and the replacement was easy. The info in your article was what made me start to look at the mosfet rectifier. Glad that i did. Keep up the good work.
Mike Prince
Thanks for the feedback Mike.
Thanks for the feedback Mike. I ordered my stator from Rick's as well.
I actually called them and placed an order over the phone. Excellent service, cheerful people and most importantly great product with excellent reviews. http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
Re. doing the MOSFET R/R upgrade. JUST DO IT. It is only a matter of time before the OEM SCR based R/R will fail and take the stator with it. In fact Triumph is replacing the failed R/R's on Street Triple's with MOSFET based R/R (if the bike is under warranty).
Switching to FH012 based R/R is the best mod. upgrade I have done on my bike.
Great post and thanks so
Great post and thanks so much for taking the time to detail this. I'm about to tackle this project and you really saved me time, effort, frustration, and money... Found your posts via a google search, it's working- Keep writing :)
Cheers Mate!
You are welcome Jason. Would
You are welcome Jason. Would be curios to see how things work out for you. I'm sure you'll chose to do a few things in a different way. It's all a part of modding your bike. Take some pictures of the process and post them in a how-to here with a little bit of description, if you have a few minutes to spare.
Hey Mexussix! So got around
Hey Mexussix!
So got around to upgrading the R/R this past weekend. I wish I could have taken some pictures, but I had to do this in my parking garage with very little light and a flashlight in my mouth (yep – sucked).. As you stated, I had a bit of a different experience and will add them here since your “How To” is so excellent.
Tank Removal:
I didn’t siphon off the gas- Had about a gallon on there, but would have been much less of a pain if I did. I was doing this myself, so I had to balance the front of the tank while unplugging the fuel line and other bits (PITA).
One question I had was if I pulled the fuel line off, would gas spill all over the place?... Nope – Both ends are self sealing, press the side buttons and slide it apart (but don’t hold the buttons when putting it back on or gas will flow). Very little gas splash, I wrapped a rag around the line to catch it...
I thought I was being careful not to drop the lower rubber spacer for the front tank bolt, but upon the second removal of the tank- I totally dropped it ( Great warning- DON’T DROP THIS)
I did not actually remove the airbox... Found that I had enough room to work- I used two ratchets one 3/8, and a very small SK palm control 1/4 to get the top and bottom bolts off. Since I installed an Ohlins shock on my S3- I had pretty good access to the lower bolt. Can see how that would be a bitch. I did have to remove the side body work, just on the right side (long plastic panel).
Shidigen FH012AA R/R:
Since the holes were not lined up ( as you mentioned) I used a dremel to widen the holes by about 5mm. Was a slow process, but quite easy and worked well....
For the cables, I ordered one from here $13.00ish shipped (Thanks Decosse for the tip on triumphrat.net) part T2500676 http://www.bikebandit.com/search-products?q=T2500676
Literally plugged it in, and it was done.... Nice!
I put it all together and the bike would not start.... Bit of quick searching = Kinked fuel line... Pulled the tank again ( dropped the rubber gasket )
Had a total pain getting the tank to line up..
I see how its so easy to strip the bolt on the front of the tank... Looks like mine was def messed up in the past. Getting the back bold in was accomplished by starting the front bolt, then working in the back part until it was through, then cranking them both down..
Assembled, started right up. Biggest difference I noticed right away was the throttle response. No lag at all- Just reved right up!
I bought the Shidigen from jasonmotoelectrix on Ebay for around $90 – super fast shipping.....I didn’t want to look around for a used one.
Good stuff!!!
Thanks again for the write up!
J
J,Congrats on successful
J,
Congrats on successful upgrade ! Enjoy your S3 and ride safely. Contribute to this site if you can. Never know, your how-to might help someone in need. All the best !
Update. Looks like now you
Update. Looks like now you can get both the Stator and the MOSFET R/R (regulator rectifier) from Rick's Motorsport:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/proddetail.php?prod=10-005H&pmc=MDZUcmlTcGVlZFRyaXBsZTEwNTA=
err.. thsoe 3 wires to the
err.. thsoe 3 wires to the stator.. are they interchangeable? I mean the part where u soldered the alternator to R/R wiring harness.. the 3 wires from alternator and 3 wires from R/R can be mixed and matched? are there any indications?
Cheers!
The wires are interchangeble.
The wires are interchangeble. It's a 3 phase AC.
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