Replacing Stator and R/R - Rectifier / Regulator, Triumph Speed Triple 2006

As I reported in my blog entry: http://www.motohowto.com/content/triumph-speed-triples-dead-rectifier-regulator-rr-leads-dead-stator

I have finally found some time to write this MotoHowTo.

My Triumph Speed Triple's  R/R + stator have finally gave up their collective ghost (a known problem with this model of motorcycles) and so,  together iwth stator replacement I used this opportunity to perform R/R upgrade from the OEM SCR based ( read cheap) R/R, to a MOSFET based, Shindigen  FH012 R/R that is used in numerous Yamaha, Kawasaki and a few other motorcycle models.

 To troubleshoot, I have used a very well documented procedure that one of the members on TriumphRat forum wrote and posted. By the way, if you own a Triumph Speed, or Street Triple's and would like to learn more about your bike, check this forum out. Here is the link to the troubleshooting charging system and R/R upgrade write-up:

http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-triple-forum/104504-charging-system-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html

I began the troubleshooting process with checking the health of the alternator (in hopes that alternator is o'k, and it's only an R/R failure), as swapping out an R/R is a much easier and faster job then replacing the alternator.  I unplugged the stator connector from the R/R (3 yellow wires on the R/R side and 3 black wires coming from the stator) and checked the resistance between each of the 3 pins on the stator connector and the engine ground (see pic below). My multi-meter beeped and showed the resistance of 0.07 Ohm. Which means a SHORT for all intents and purposes. I repeated that for all 3 pins and and all of them showed SHORT to the ground. It meant  - my  stator is "dead".

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When I tested the OEM R/R (stator connector), pin 1 to 2 was a short in both directions.  This meant that  OEM R/R is a toast and probably the reason for baking the stator.

Few days ago I found another very detailed charging system troubleshooting diagram.  A bit more detailed and little more complex, but very very thorough:
http://www.electrosport.com/technical-resources/library/diagnosis/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

Knowing what was wrong with my bike, it was time to order parts:

Since I decided to NOT to use OEM R/R, (a few used ones were available on E-Bay for around US$120.00), I searched for Shindigen FH012 based R/R and fond a used one off 2008 Kawasaki ZG1400 Concourse for about  $32.00 shipping included (1/3 price of the inferior used OEM R/R .. gotta love E-Bay).

Next on my shopping list were the

Refurbished Stator
Furukawa connectors for the R/R
12G Automotive grade insulation wiring (black, red, yellow) & some shrink wrap tubing

I got the stator from  here:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/
Excellent service, great price, prompt shipping and the strter came with everything needed for install. Highly recommended

Fururakawa connectors are available from two places that I know of. Since I decided to wire my own connectors I ordered them from here (local to me, so I could just pick the parts up).
http://roadstercycle.com/
Jack Flemming has the the whole kit if you don't want top hunt for the used  FH012 R/R on e-bay. REally good guy and he also builds very cool custom 3 wheelers called "Roadstercycle".

Another place to source the connectors, or the whole R/R harness custom built for you is at

http://easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R_R_Connectors/r_r_connectors.html

If you don't know how to crimp and solder, or don't want to bother with that, you can order the connectors pre-made at Eastern Beaver. So, it becomes a plug and play deal.

A replacement stator has arrived.  Great packaging and prompt shipment. Highly recommend the source:
http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/

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Below are the parts I purchased to do the stator replacement and R/R upgrade. The only item missing is the gasket sheeth that used to make a gasket for the alternator cover (didn't want to wait 10 days for the OEM gasket to arrive). Left to right: FH012 R/R, Stator, Furukawa connectors.

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Closeup of the Shidigen FH012 R/R

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Below is the top view of the OEM R/R.

To get there, you have to remove tank
http://www.motohowto.com/content/removing-fuel-tank-triumph-speed-triple-2006

then remove the airbox
http://www.motohowto.com/content/removing-airbox-triumph-speed-triple-2006

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Below, disconnect the DC connector from the OEM R/R and the harness (the AC 3 phase connector from R/R to alternator disconnected earlier during testing).

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Remove the top bolt holding OEM R/R in place

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Remove the bottom bolt holding OEM R/R in place (very difficult to access)

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Below OEM R/R removed.

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I cut off the connectors from the OEM R/R and used them to make two new R/R harnesses, with OEM Yazaki connectors on the harness and alternator end and the Furukawa connectors on the end facing the FH012 R/R. Below is the conenctor that plugs in to harness and delivers rectified DC to the electrical system. I soldered the two red (positive polarity) wires and a 12ga automotive grade wire together.

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Then I did the same with the black wires (negative)

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Then I covered all the soldered joints in liquid electrical tape (got it at the auto-parts store) and allowed it to dry for 3 hours

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Once the liquid tape was dry, I covered each joint with a shrink wrap insulation and shrunk it with the help of a hair dryer set on "high".

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Same procedure as above was repeated for the alternator to R/R wiring harness. Soldered and liquid taped.

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Then each joint individually shrink wrapped

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Shindigen side of the DC wiring was crimped and then soldered (soldering picture not shown). Mental note: DONT FORGET  to put all the connectors, and additional shrink wrapping on the wires before crimping and soldering the connectors on.

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AC and DC harnesses ready to be connected. Yellow - AC (alternator to R/R) , Black DC (Main wiring harness to R/R)

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R/R and the connectors

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I mounted the FH012 with a top mounting hole. The bottom is a little off so I used a ziptie through the bottom R/R hole + the mounting bracket o secure the bottom part. I figured the top bolt with loctite on it and the bottom with zip tie should hold the R/R securely in place. Will inspect in a few weeks and see if anything come lose.

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Plugged in the AC harness I made out of the old R/R's Yazaki conenctors on the alternator side

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Time to replace the alternator. Removing the alternator cover bolts.

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It wasn't easy to remove the cover as the previos owner had it removed and replaced before. Only he used epoxy to seal it ! !@#$@#$@#% !   It took me 2 hours of thinkering with jewelers scredrivers, varios thin blades and finally GENTLY prying the cover off with a flat blade screwdriver. I managed t only slightly nick the cover surface. Also the powerful permanent magnets hold the stator+cover in place as well. Once the cover was removed I got a look at the old stator.  Yep ... one of the top most coils was burned to crisp black.

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Below engine side picture with alternator cover removed. Note the remnants of the old gasket glued to both the cover and the engine sides.

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Removing the 3 hex screws that attach stator to the cover case.

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Removing the screw that holds wiring bracket in place

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Close up of the stator wire holder / bracket

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Old (Left) and New (right) stators side by side.

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Old Stator. Note the charred coil at the top.

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REmoving the remnants of the old gasket from the stator cover. I used the same tool to remove the renmants of the gasket from the engine side. Previous owner's mistakes ended up wasting close to 4 hours of my time just cleaning up the old mess.

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Stator cower after old gasket was scraped off with a new stator installed.

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Forgot to take pictures of making the new gasket. I bought the gasket paper at the automotive store and used a ballpen hammer as shown in the youtube video below to make a new gasket. Took me about 30 minutes and it was actually fun.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MdG10CR0Woc

Replaced the old gasket and reinstall the stator cover. Torque the bolts with the torque wrench to factory specified torque setting (as specified in the service manual).

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Reconnect the R/R connector to stator.

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Install the airbox and tank back.  Connect the Multimeter to the battery,  turn the key, clutch in, thumb the starter button. Thge ngine roared to life !!!

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The Multimeter reading at 4k RPM. PERFECT !!!

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The lights look brighter and when I took the motorcycle on a canyon ride the following weekend, it ran smoother, with better throttle response.

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