Triumph Speed Triple's - Dead Rectifier-Regulator-R/R, leads to a Dead Stator

rnexussix's picture

Yesterday  as I finished refueling at the local gas station I turned the ignition on and upon hitting the starter button the engine turned over once and then I heard the dreaded "click, click, click" as the headlights dimmed ... a sure sign that the battery was finished, empty, caput ! I thumbed the starter button again and with the same result. So, I called my wife and asked her to bring jumper cables (luckily I was close to home). Once she arrived I jumped the bike from the car's battery, and it started on the first engine revolution. Rode home and left the motorcycle running - used the spare key to unlock the seat and put the voltmeter on to the battery. Voltmeter's display read 10.2V. I did a double-take and re-checked the voltmeter connection. Yep, it's reading the real voltage. Turned off the ignition and watched the battery voltage climb to 11.8v within 10 seconds. Thought to myself; "God please make it an R/R failure, not the stator ! I have a great weekend ride coming up that I don't want to miss ! " 

Ever since I bought my previously owned Speed Triple I have been lurking and occasionally asking a question or two on the Web Forum dedicated to this make/model of the bike. This is where I found out that  a sub-par (read cheap) OEM rectifier/regulator, or  R/R for short   has been known to go bad and take the stator / alternator with it. Apparently a common problem for this make/model of the bike.  According to a lot of internet posts, Triumph Speed Triple and Street Triple's OEM SCR based rectifier is known for overheating and failing with an electrical short, which in turn over time stressed and eventually burned out  the stator (there is a reason why Triumph has switched recently to MOSFET based R/R's).  An excellent how-to, written by a resident of the explains the fine points of  troubleshooting the charging system and upgrading the inferior, OEM,  SCR based R/R, with a MOSFET based Shindegen FH012 R/R. See the link below:

I so this write up almost a year ago, but truth to be told, I was a bit lazy and decided that "if it ain't broke don't fix it" was a better approach.  This time I went online and printed out the charging system's troubleshooting procedure. With it in hand I started to "troubleshoot". First I decided to rule out a dead stator. Disconnected the R/R from stator and checked the resistance between 3 stator connectors and ground ....

Pin 1 to ground = short
Pin 2 to ground = short
Pin 3 to ground = short

Yep. DEAD STATOR  RIP. I didn't even bother checking the old R/R as I decided right there and then to replace it with a better product.  This morning I placed the orders for a rebuilt stator and purchased a Shindegen FH012 R/R on E-Bay. All together a little under $200. If I were to order all new OEM Triumph parts from a dealer my total was going to exceed US$600.

Good news; I think I can get the bike back up and running and upgrade it with better charging system without declaring a bankruptcy.

Bad News: will have to miss this weekend's ride. !@$@$%!@$% ! I was really looking forward to getting out and the weather is so nice in now Sunny South California ! Ohh well....

Will be posting a report, detailing the stator and  rectifier / regulator replacement in a few days. Stay tuned !



This afternoon I got the new stator from Rick's (what a great company to do business with and highly recommended). It was nicely packed and when I opened the box it looks shiny, brand spanking new. So with stator, Shindigen FH012, and the Furukawa connectors I decided to begin the repair / upgrade. (see pictures attached).

Thought I'll start with removing the old R/R and then progress to replacing the old stator, wiring the Shindigen FH012 and testing.

After 2 hours of work, I have two things to say:

1) I hate the previous owner, who in his infinite wisdom tie-wrapped the old stator's cable to the harness underneath the air-box (yes, I had to remove the tank and airbox).

2) I hope the Triumph designer who placed the BOTTOM BOLT which holds the OEM R/R in place; get's to remove and install that bolt back over, and over and over, and over .... in the purgatory / bardo / his next 5 reincarnations. Seriously, has anyone tried reaching with a wrench between the rear shock absorber and the plastic bracket to hold that nut in place while you try to unscrew the bolt ?

With R/R removed and the bike thorn apart I stopped the wrenching as the sun was setting. Will continue tomorrow.



Replaced the Stator and R/R.

1) I replaced the old, dead stator with the one I got from Rick's Electric.
2) Since I wasn't inclined to wait a week for the OEM gasket, I made one from the gasket material, that I bought from a local auto-parts store (again thanks to the thread I found here).
3) I replaced the the OEM SCR based R/R with MOSFET - FH012 unit + the Furukawa connector (chose to keep the old Yazaky connectors on the opposite ends of the new wiring).

1) Ignition off = 12.80v
2) Ignition on engine not running (60 seconds test) = 12.58V
3) Engine running @ idle (after a 15 seconds) = 14.00V
4) Engine Running @ 4k RPM = 14.18V

She is A LIVE !!!


rnexussix's picture

Hi Andy,Try asking your

Hi Andy,

Try asking your question in the forum I linked below


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